Food fashion in France
法国食尚
Low culture
低文化含量
The latest threat to the French way of life
传统法国生活方式受到威胁
Feb 18th 2010 | PARIS | From The Economist print edition
ROQUEFORT, camembert, brie de Meaux, Saint-Félicien, gruyère, comté, münster, pont l’évêque, cantal, reblochon, tomme de Savoie, crottin de chavignol. A spontaneous familiarity with the display on a* three-tier cheese trolley *（注3）is essential to the *national identity *（注5）of the French. Each of them guzzles 25kg of the stuff per year, second only to the Greeks. Now, though, there are disturbing signs that the land of the unpasteurised gourmet cheese is being colonised by pale plastic-packed foreign stuff.
*羊乳干酪,camembert软质乳酪,莫城干酪,圣费利西安软质奶酪,*格鲁耶尔奶酪*（注4）,孔泰奶酪,门斯特奶酪,彭勒维克奶酪,冈塔尔奶酪,瑞布罗申奶酪,多姆奶酪,哥洛亭达沙维翁乳酪.*(注1）法国人对于三层奶酪推车的摆放驾轻就熟,这是民族特色的体现.每年法国人人均吃掉25公斤的奶酪,消费量仅次于希腊.但是迹象表明未经高温消毒的美味奶酪日渐受到塑料包装的外国食品的冲击,这种迹象令人不安.
Last year, despite the recession, overall French cheese consumption grew. Yet to the dismay of purists, sales of such soft cheeses as camembert and brie dropped by 2%, according to the National Interprofessional Centre of the Dairy Economy. The fastest-growing sales, by contrast, were in the category covering Italian mozzarella and Greek feta, which jumped by 10% (although overall volumes remain small).
尽管去年经济不景气,但是法国奶酪的整体消费量有增无减.国家乳制品经济管理中心数据显示,像 camembert,莫城等软质乳酪的销售量下降了2%,令纯粹主义者大失所望.相比之下,销售速度最快的是像意大利干酪和希腊羊乳酪等产品,其销售量上升了10%.（虽然其整体销售份额依旧很小）
Some of this is explained by the rise of the pizza, now part of the French staple diet. In 2008 Domino’s Pizza, an American home-delivery firm, saw its French sales jump by 31%, as its outlets spread across the country like melting mozzarella. Another factor is France’s sandwich boom. These days the French spend on average just 31 minutes munching their lunch, down from an hour and 38 minutes back in 1975. Young office types increasingly shun the sit-down brasserie meal in favour of le snacking: salads in plastic boxes or toasted *panini*（注2）, filled with yet more feta and mozzarella.
出现上述销售状况的一部分原因是比萨饼日渐兴旺,逐渐成为法国人的主食之一.2008年美国一家送货上门公司——达美乐比萨在法国的营销店如雨后春笋般涌现,公司在法国的销售量上涨了31%.另外一部分原因是法国三明治发展迅速.1975年法国人吃午饭将近98分钟,而现在平均31分钟就搞定一顿午餐.年轻职员不喜欢坐在正规餐厅里用餐,却更喜欢零食,像塑料盒装着的色拉,夹着希腊羊乳酪和意大利干酪的烤帕尼尼面包.
Artisan fromagers are hitting back. Next month will see a National Cheese Day, just after the annual Paris Agricultural Fair, a ritual event where mud and straw is imported into the capital and the French celebrate their roots in the terroirs. French cheese, says the Association Fromage de Terroirs, a lobby group, is not just food, but a “theme of national importance”. It fears that traditional cheese-making, demanding raw milk, sweat and loving care, is being eclipsed by a bland, pasteurised industry, designed in part to suit foreign markets. Even in France only 15% of fine cheeses are made from unpasteurised milk. “The French now buy cheese as they buy washing powder,” laments Véronique Richez-Lerouge, the group’s president. The group sells a wall calendar featuring women in their underwear offering cheese (see slideshow), which “defends the values of the French art de vivre”.
工匠奶酪强势归来.下个月继一年一度的巴黎农业博览会——届时将举行活动仪式,即首都巴黎进口带着泥土的稻草,民众欢庆土壤中的根茎——之后将举行全国奶酪节.议会小组乡土奶酪协会说,法国奶酪不仅仅是一种食品,更是“国家价值的重要体现”.传统的奶酪制作业由未经消毒原料乳加工而成,制作者辛勤劳作,细心照料,而现在为了适应国外市场,乡土奶酪协会担心这些优良的传统将被取而代之,做出没有味道,经过消毒的奶酪.即便在法国也只有15%的奶酪是由未经消毒的原奶制作的.该协会会长Véronique Richez-Lerouge叹息说“法国人买奶酪就像买洗衣粉一样”.该协会推出一套挂历,挂历上美女身穿内衣手捧奶酪（见幻灯片）,旨在维护法国的生活方式.
The trouble is that, even as traditionalists fret about industrialisation, French business is taking matters into its own hands. Santa Lucia and Salakis, two of the best-known brands of, respectively, Italian mozzarella and Greek feta on French hypermarket shelves, are owned by Lactalis, a vast dairy group with 127 industrial sites worldwide. The company’s nationality? French.
问题是,即便传统主义者也为工业化的不断发展焦虑不安.法国人自己掌控着法国的商业.法国超市货架上两家最有名的品牌——意大利干酪品牌店Santa Lucia和希腊羊乳酪品牌店Salakis均属于 Lactalis公司,该公司是一家乳制品大集团,在全球拥有127个工业点.你猜这家公司是哪国的?法国的!
