Capital of Japan from 794 through 1868, Kyoto today is a small city with tremendous cultural assets. The population is 1.4 million and has its share of concrete, but don't blame the American military for its despoilation. Out of consideration for its artistic treasures, the city was spared both the incendiary bombs and atomic bombs that devastated the rest of Japan. Surrounded on three sides by mountains and cut through by rivers, a typical view of Kyoto will include both the manmade and the natural